HippoPress.com
New Hampshire's alternative
 

Apr. 26, 2001


 
 
 
 
 
 
 


image by Keith Demanche

 

By John Fladd
HippoPress.com


You’ve probably never realized it before, but condiments are the measure of a community’s ethnic diversity, and that’s never been truer than here in Manchester.

They are also a great way to get to know your community.
The logic goes something like this:

• Manchester is an increasingly ethnically-diverse city.

• It is important to gain at least some small insights into the cultures that make up the population of a city like Manchester.

• One great way to be introduced to a new culture is through its food.

• Trying new and foreign foods can be intimidating, but a fairly painless way to ease into a new cuisine is through its condiments.

It takes a huge leap of courage to eat a dish from the Philippines made from aged duck eggs. It is infinitely easier to try Filipino banana sauce on your French fries.

Condiment diversity comes to the Queen City

Manchester is much more diverse than it used to be. According to the new figures from the U.S. Census, there are approximately 107,000 people living in Manchester. Of that population, 98,000 are white. That figure is deceptive. While the city’s population as a whole has remained relatively static, growing by approximately 7 percent between 1990 and 2000, its minority population more than doubled, from approximately 3,000 to more than 7,000 (or even more, depending on how the city’s Hispanic population is counted). Nowhere is this change more apparent than in Manchester’s food scene.

Manchester has its fair share of ethnic restaurants, but the city has bloomed as a retail food destination, according to chef Brigid Flanigan, an assistant professor at the Culinary Institute at New Hampshire College.

“It’s interesting,” she says. “You look and you see that the restaurants in town are just coming into their own but there’s a definite presence in town among ethnic grocery stores - a Caribbean presence, an Asian one - it’s really diverse. You can walk into a grocery store now and find a jar of pico de gallo as easily as mayonnaise. That’s a great development.”

Flanigan views condiments as an important tool for getting a grip on new types of food. The key, she says, is to not overwhelm yourself with a new cuisine.

“Condiments are wonderful that way,” she explains. “They’re a shortcut to a cuisine. A lot of things are just too much on your first try to take in all at once. If you add a teaspoonful or two of a condiment into your coleslaw, on the other hand, then suddenly you have something quite different.”

Another advantage to experimenting with condiments, Flanigan explains, is that most of them come in relatively small packages.

“You’re not locked into a 32-ounce jar of something you might not like,” she explains. “These are foods from cultures where 13-cubic-foot refrigerators are not the norm. The rest of the world shops every day and buys their food in small quantities.”

According to Flanigan, there is one additional bonus to using imported condiments - to a large extent, what you see is what you get.

“You see this especially with Asian condiments,” she says. “They’re very direct; for the most part. They have labels like ‘Hot Chili Sauce with Garlic’ - they don’t fool around with cutesie names.” Having the flavor of a new food explained explicitly can be particularly useful to someone who is just starting to experiment with a new type of food, she points out.

The question remains, however - which condiments are worth trying and which ones aren’t? Manchester has dozens of superettes and small grocery stores, each one of which is stocked with what seems like 872 different sauces, salsas, mustards, chutneys, curry pastes and marinades. Just getting started is a daunting process.
Taking the view that condiments are an easy way to become familar with more ethnically diverse foods, HippoPress has taste-tested a variety of sauces from local ethnic grocery stores. All are reasonably priced between $1 and $3. Each sauce has been put through a rigorous tasting by a panel of judges. The tasting protocol was simple: all condiments were sampled on at least two occasions. After extensive discussion, the judges ultimately decided to use onion rings and tater-tots to dunk into the sauces. What follows is a highly subjective sampling of critiques of several of the most noteworthy condiments tested:

Jufran Banana Sauce
What is it? A thick, red, ketchup-like sauce from the Phillipines. It has a spicy, sweet flavor.
Judges’ comments:
“It’s like honey-nut ketchup - in a good way, though...”
“Saucy, but impudent - a classic!”
Verdict: A definite winner.
It must be noted that this was far and away, the judges’ favorite condiment. One judge went so far as to distract the others and steal the bottle.
Available at the Saigon Asian Market.

Grace Caribbean Style Hot Pepper Sauce
What is it? A thin, yellow, mustard-based sauce with flecks of habenero chilis. Very spicy.
Judges’ comments:
“Too mustardy.”
“Oh dear God!”
“You really feel this one in your ears!”
Verdict: An unexpected taste. Too spicy for most palates.
Available at the Saigon Asian Market.

Marco Polo Mild Ajvar
What is it? A thick, vividly red, Polish vegetable paste with strong paprika undertones.
Judges’ comments:
“This is really good on the potatoes!”
“It tastes like fruity shoe polish.”
Verdict: A subtle, acquired taste.
Available at the Bartlett Street Superette.

La Costena Taquera Sauce (Hot)
What is it? A slightly thick, hot, Mexican red sauce.
Judges’ comments:
“This tastes like a virgin bloody Mary.”
“Nice. It has a nice, sustained burn to it.”
Verdict: Good, but not remarkable.
Available at Bastians Market.

Lee Kum Kee Peanut Flavored Sauce
What is it? A creamy, sweet Chinese sauce with a strong peanut flavor.
Judges’ comments:
“Oh my! That’s very good, very smooth.”
“I was initially unimpressed. The fault lies with the onion rings - put this on broccoli and you’d have that whole Asian thing going on.”
Verdict: Very good. A good beginner’s sauce.
Available at the Saigon Asian Market.

Tekemalli Delcious Sauce From Russia
What is it? A thin, sweet, plum-colored sauce.
Judges’ comments:
“Ugh!”
“Are you sure this is supposed to go on food?”
“Well, here’s your problem (pointing at label), it’s not Delicious sauce, it’s Dell-shuss sauce!”
Verdict: Pass on this one.
Available at the Bartlett Street Superette.

La Botanera Hot Sauce
What is it? A thin, reddish-brown chili sauce from Mexico with a slightly smoky flavor.
Judges’ comments:
“Yeah! That’s the stuff! My GOD that’s good! I’d mix it with my toothpaste!”
“It’s got just the right tang to it - just salty enough.”
Verdict: Very positive. Not too hot with a good flavor. Available at Bastians Market.

Kamis Musztarda Grillowa
What is it? A spicy, yellow-brown, Polish mustard.
Judges’ comments:
“Now THIS is a mustard!”
“This is good - very, very good.”
“You, boy! Fetch me a bratwurst!”
Verdict: This is a very good mustard.
Available at the Bartlett Street Superette.

Mang Tomas Sauce For Roasts (Hot and Spicy)
What is it? A thickish, brown sauce from the Philippines.
Judges’ comments:
“Under-whelming.”
“Terribly unremarkable.”
“It makes my onion ring taste like a roast, but is that a good thing?”
“It tastes like ‘Chicken ‘N Biscuits’ crackers. Again, is that a good thing?”
Verdict: Definitely not a winner. The judges were unanimous in their desire to like this sauce. It has such a bizarre and funky label that everyone wanted it to be a surprise winner. Unfortunately, nobody could actually work up any enthusiasm for the sauce itself.
Available at the Saigon Asian Market.

The future is tasty

Looking at this brief overview of condiments, a natural question arises where do we go from here? This is where the census figures are especially telling.

Manchester’s Hispanic population has tripled in the past 10 years. The Black and Asian populations have each doubled. In 1990 the Black population was 968. Ten years later, it is now 2,246. In 1990 there were 1092 Asians. Today there are 2,487, according to most recent U.S. Census figures.
Even more fascinating are the figures for Manchester’s Native American and Hawaiian populations. The number of Native Americans has grown by 50 percent since 1990. Until 2000, Native Hawaiians and Pacific Islanders were not counted; now, Manchester has a small Pacific population of approximately 38 people.

Following the growing population trends, stores have opened to serve these more diverse populations, which bodes well for the city’s supply of jerk sauces, chutneys and salsas. For example, just last year the Siagon Market opened. Today it serves a diverse Indian and Asian population.

In thirty years, your grandchildren may be able to find more and more interesting and exotic condiments to put on their tater-tots.

John Fladd can be reached at johnfladd@hotmail.com.

 

 

 

 





 


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